Count outfits, not pieces
A wardrobe is useful when its pieces combine. Ten that all go together make dozens of outfits; thirty that each go with two make thirty. Before buying anything, the question is not whether you like it but how many of your existing outfits it joins.
Settle a palette
Most men who dress well wear a narrow range of colours. Pick two or three base colours that work together, such as navy, grey and stone, or olive, brown and cream, and buy most things in those. Add colour in small, cheap pieces: a T-shirt, socks, a cap.
| Base | Works with |
|---|---|
| Navy | Grey, stone, white, brown leather, olive |
| Olive | Cream, brown, navy, washed black |
| Stone or ecru | Navy, brown, olive, black |
| Washed black | Grey, white, olive, ecru |
Find the gap
Lay everything out by category and the gaps show themselves. Common ones:
- Plenty of tops, one pair of trousers you actually like. A second pair in another base colour doubles your outfits.
- Everything is black or navy, and so are the shoes. One pair in brown suede or leather opens up the rest.
- No middle layer. An overshirt or a light knit turns a T-shirt and trousers into something finished for half the year.
The piece that fills the biggest gap is worth more than three that sit next to things you already have.
Wear what you own
Most wardrobes have pieces that never come out because nothing seems to go with them. Before buying to replace them, try them with your most-worn pieces. A forgotten jacket over the trousers and shoes you wear every week is often the outfit you were looking for.
Buy for the gap
- Name the gap first, then shop for it, not the other way round.
- Check it against at least five outfits you can already make.
- Check the size against a piece that fits before you buy.